Category: Chameleon care

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) in Chameleons

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Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) in Chameleons

Chameleons are, on the whole, hardy animals. Unfortunately, it is increasingly common to hear of Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) in chameleons.

Early signs of Metabolic Bone Disease in chameleons may be subtle and few.  The chameleon may even look healthy. Sadly, by the time the symptoms are noticed the damage has been done and may be irreversible. Therefore, is to spot the symptoms while they can be treated. It is even more important to avoid MBD altogether! This is a chameleon disease that is entirely preventable!

Also known as rickets, Metabolic Bone Disease is one of the most common problems seen in captive chameleons. Unless treated early, MBD cannot be fully cured but, if caught in time, the effects can be reduced or minimized.

It is not uncommon to see animals showing early signs of MBD for sale in pet shops that do not have experience with chameleons – such animals should be avoided. It is highly unlikely that the chameleon can be saved and the outlook is typically a crippled animal that is likely to die young.

Metabolic Bone Disease in chameleons - a female showing lumps due to MBD

Symptoms of Metabolic Bone Disease

The early signs of Metabolic Bone Disease in chameleons are often irregular shapes of the rear leg bones or a misshapen casque, which is more obvious in males. Chameleon leg swelling or swollen ankles, particularly on the rear limbs, are another symptom. Lack of coordination, more frequently seen in the rear legs, is a further sign of trouble. This may look like the chameleon’s back legs are not working properly.

If MBD is allowed to develop, the chameleon’s rear legs lose their ability to grip branches properly and eventually, the chameleon will be unable to climb.

If left untreated the damage to the bones will increase due to lack of calcification, until even the slightest knock may result in a broken bone.

Other problems include dehydration due to difficulty in drinking, a decreased appetite, and bumps and lumps in odd places around the body.

Metabolic Bone Disease in chameleons due to poor UV light

What causes MBD in chameleons

Without ultraviolet light, a chameleon cannot synthesize vitamin D3, which leaves food as its only source. In captivity, chameleon food rarely contains sufficient vitamin D3. This vitamin enables the chameleon to absorb calcium properly and distribute it to the bones. The result is a calcium deficiency in the chameleon.

Veiled chameleons are the species most commonly affected by MBD. Other commonly kept species such as Panther and Carpet chameleons more rarely show symptoms but UV light should be provided nonetheless.

The reason why Veiled chameleons are more susceptible is they are often allowed to grow too fast.

Coming from an area where food may be hard to find or only appear sporadically, Veiled chameleons will eat gluttonously when allowed to do so. This will cause them to grow faster than the calcium and necessary minerals can be assimilated to produce strong bones.

Occasionally, MBD will surface in a Veiled chameleon that is being well cared for by its owner. In this case, the MBD may result from the chameleon’s care when young, either by the breeder or the pet shop. This reinforces the need to obtain your chameleons from a knowledgeable and reputable source.

MBD can also appear in gravid females as the calcium is used to form the eggs.

Metabolic Bone Disease in chameleons - a bent casque in a Veiled chameleon

Treatment of Metabolic Bone Disease

It takes time for MBD to become a problem. Mild cases caught early and treated correctly can be successfully resolved, although MBD recovery time can still take many weeks or longer.

If left too long, it can be harder to treat. The bent legs and other deformities will always be present. Sadly, the life expectancy of the chameleon is likely to be reduced.

For mild cases, treatment will involve improvement to the diet, calcium and vitamin D supplements and proper UV exposure. This is the time to review all the husbandry of your chameleon – the size of the cage, the position, size and age of the UV lights, how you gut-load the food, the variety and type of food, how water is administered, etc.

More serious cases are likely to involve veterinary intervention. There may be broken bones that need attention. A more dramatic dietary change and supplements may be required, including injections of vitamin D and/or certain hormones/supplements. MBD may have affected the chameleon in ways not obvious without the advice of a vet, such as dehydration.

In all cases of MBD, you should seek the advice of a vet. Injections of calcium, normally calcium gluconate, may be administered but, subject to how advanced the problem has become, the damage is often irreversible.

Female chameleons that have had any Metabolic Bone disorders should not be used for breeding.

How to Avoid Metabolic Bone Disease

Avoiding Metabolic Bone Disease symptoms is simple and should be the goal from the day the chameleon arrives at your home.

Young Veiled chameleons should be fed sensibly – I found that feeding them for four days and skipping the fifth worked well. Be careful not to overfeed young Veileds. There is no benefit to excessively fast growth.

Ensure that adequate calcium supplement is being dusted on the food.

Give the chameleon a varied diet and provide foods that have the right calcium/phosphorous ratio. The closer to 2:1 the better. Insects like silkworms and crickets are good. Mealworms are not, being almost 1:1.

In my experience, the key to avoiding MBD disease is adequate UV light. A good 5.0 UV light, in good condition, placed at the correct distance for 12 hours a day. Remember that UV lights lose their effectiveness over time. Renew them when necessary – don’t delay too long just to save a bit of money.

(Click here for an article about UV lights.)

The cheapest source of UV-B is the sun, which is obviously far better than any artificial source. If it is at all possible, consider keeping your chameleons in (safe and secure) outdoor cages whenever your situation and the temperature permits. Even a few hours each week will be beneficial.

If there is no natural sunlight or adequate artificial ultraviolet light, the risks of MBD may, under strictly managed conditions, be reduced by a diet high in vitamin D3. Occasionally, books (particularly older ones) will indicate that a diet with sufficient vitamin D3 will remove the need for ultraviolet light altogether. This is not a recommended route and exposure to ultraviolet light should be viewed as essential.

Please Note:

Although some treatment advice for Metabolic Bone Disease is given in this article, it is not intended as a manual on how to treat sick chameleons. For this, you should seek the help of a vet.

Rather, the objective is to highlight some of the problems that may occur, along with their causes. It is hoped that such information might prevent such problems from occurring at all. 

Updated July 2023

Providing water for chameleons -correctly and easily

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Water for chameleons – essential for health

In the wild, normally chameleons drink from water drops on leaves after rainfall or from heavy dew. Chameleons can absorb water through their skin but they still need to drink. Due to the high humidity in certain rain forest habitats, the regular heavy morning mist there provides extra hydration for montane chameleon species.

In captivity, an owner should try to replicate these situations to ensure the best chameleon care. This requires some research in where your chameleon comes from. A Panther chameleon and a Veiled chameleon, for example, come from very different habitats. (Books about chameleons can give valuable background about various species origins – checkout our book selection.)

Sadly, this research doesn’t always happen leading to the two most common problems found in captive chameleons – dehydration and metabolic bone disease.

The two most common mistakes in providing water to a chameleon are either not doing so in the right manner, or giving too little through insufficient spraying.

It’s not necessary to provide a constant water supply for chameleons, so long as it is regular (that is several times a day), done in a way that the chameleon can drink the water and sufficient quantity that the chameleon gets enough each day. The important thing is keeping the chameleon hydrated.

It is very rare for chameleons to drink from a bowl. There will always be someone who claims to have a chameleon which does but, even if true, it’s very unusual. Your chameleon is likely to become fatally dehydrated if you expect it to do the same.

Providing water the correct way is straightforward and easy to do. Here are some suggestions:

Providing water for Chameleons the correct way

There are several ways to successfully provide water for chameleons.  In each case, the water needs to run off the leaves or branches so that the movement catches the reptile’s eyes and it starts drinking.  Normally, the water will need to run for a few minutes before the chameleon shows interest, and it needs to continue until the animal stops drinking.

If you wonder how much water chameleons drink a day, you need to know that a daily, cursory spray is insufficient. Sadly, I’ve seen people spray their chameleons as quickly as they would a houseplant, stopping as soon as the leaves are wet. That’s never enough.

water for chameleons cages being sprayed
Automated watering using a computerised garden irrigation system.

Spraying must be a sustained event, as it would be during a downpour of rain. The water should be running freely down the leaves and branches for several minutes. And the process should be repeated during the day, not just done once. Twice is good, three times is better. This is a good reason why adequate drainage in the cage is essential.

Hand spraying

This is a good method but requires daily attention and time.  The spraying should be done at least twice a day, which for many people is not practical.  Unless you have strong hands, I’d suggest you invest in a 5-litre pump spray, especially if you own more than one cage.

Waterfalls

Pet shops love to sell artificial waterfalls as they look quite attractive as part of the overall set-up.  However, I recommend avoiding them.

They have gained a well-deserved reputation for potential hygiene problems. This makes sense, as any body of water kept warm and aerated becomes an ideal breeding ground for bacteria.  And that’s what happens when water is continuously pumped around an artificial waterfall. If the chameleon defecates into the water or a cricket carelessly drowns in it, the chances of the water becoming polluted are high.

Drip Systems / Ice cubes

In emergencies, I’ve used a 5-litre plastic box as a water reservoir, placed on top of the cage. Water drips into the cage through a small hole drilled in the bottom of the box.  For better control, I run a short pipe from the bottom of the box so it ends above some leaves. By connecting a small plastic tap to the pipe, I can control the amount of water dripping. The kind of tap used in aquariums to control air pumps is ideal.

I have found two potential problems with this setup, neither of which is insurmountable.  The first was that the drip system delivered five litres of water inside the chameleon cage each day which required good drainage.

The second problem was that the hole often got blocked. If this went unnoticed, the chameleons had no water but as I was working at home, I could fix this before it became a problem.

water for Chameleons drip system
A basic dripping system, with the ‘tap’ at the end to control the speed of the water as it drips onto the leaves.

Some books suggest an alternative by placing ice cubes in a plastic container with a small hole in the bottom.  As the ice cubes melt, the water trickles through the hole and dribbles down the branches.  This idea, however, has several flaws.  The first is that the water may be too cold when the chameleon drinks it.  The second is that, depending on where you live, the ice cubes are likely to melt too fast for the idea to be practical.

Automated Watering Systems

Automated watering is by far and away my favourite system. And why not? It supplies the correct amount of water, when and where it’s needed. And, aside from making sure the system continues to function properly, minimal work is involved!

Gardena water computer
A Gardena water computer. There are many alternatives on the market to choose from.

Several types of automated watering systems, of varying complexity, are available on the market.  In both South Africa and Malaysia, I have relied heavily on automated garden irrigation systems, such as those sold by Gardena, which are set to spray at timed intervals. I set them to spray roughly three times a day for fifteen minutes, except in winter (South Africa) or the wet season (Malaysia) when they run only twice a day for ten minutes.

Mistking water misting system
A MistKing starter kit. This produces a fine mist rather than a spray but works well for baby chameleons. Many keepers use them for adults as well.

Other systems designed for reptiles include MistKing. These generate a mist or very fine spray, rather than the more rain-like effect from the gardening systems but they work well.

Dehydration

If a chameleon is not drinking properly, it will soon become dehydrated. Its eyes will take on a sunken appearance. You should also regularly check the colour of its faeces. The urate should be white. If it’s yellow or orange, it’s a possible sign of dehydration. Other factors can cause sunken eyes and discoloured urate but these are warning signs to look out for.

Unfortunately, even limited dehydration can occur without any obvious signs. The resulting damage to the chameleon’s internal organs may be irreversible if the situation isn’t fixed quickly.  Providing adequate water for your chameleon is not something to leave to chance.

Emergency Care

If you think your chameleon is dehydrated, seek the advice of a vet who knows about chameleons immediately. You can’t afford to wait to see if it gets better.

If you’re just worried your reptile didn’t drink the day before due to a problem with the watering system, it’s probably not too serious. Some species come from regions where rainfall is not a daily occurrence. However, there is normally heavy dew even in the dry season.

Some keepers advocate putting the chameleon on a large branch and putting it in the shower. You obviously need to check and monitor the force and temperature of the water carefully. The experience may be too stressful for your chameleon. I’ve not tried this method.

What has worked for me is dripping water onto a leaf in front of the chameleon. You can also sometimes get them to take water from the nozzle of the spray bottle or the drips from the end of a large plastic syringe. You will probably need to spend a long time doing so, but it’s worth it if the chameleon drinks.

Summarising Water for Chameleons

Providing water for chameleons correctly is one of the most easily overlooked essentials for a chameleon. That’s partly because there are no shortcuts (aside from automation). The chameleon needs daily access to adequate, clean dripping water.

I haven’t discussed whether tap water or bottled water is best. That is a personal decision, which may be affected by where you live and the quality of your tap water. Obviously, the water must be clean and any container used as a reservoir for sprays, etc., should be kept clean.

If you can automate the watering process, it’ll remove most of the risks and cut down the time involved. More important, the health of your pet will be safeguarded. And it will make looking after your chameleon fun rather than a chore.

water for chameleons from a spray
Chameleons will often take water from the nozzle of a spray.

UV light for chameleons

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UV light for chameleons

Keeping chameleons in captivity failed in the past due partly to a limited understanding of their need for ultra violet light. Sadly, the situation has only improved slightly today and the need for UV light for chameleons is too often ignored.

I still get photos of Veiled chameleons with chronic MBD from owners who thought they could get away without a UV light. They write to ask how they can ‘fix’ their pet’s MBD. In most, if not all, cases they can’t.

The correct use of UV light is essential for a healthy chameleon. But it may not be as straightforward as you think. Read on to learn why distance and strength can play a critical part.

Know your UV

UV light for chameleons showing wavelength
UV light wavelength compared to other light

There are three types of ultra violet light: UV-A (long wave), UV-B (medium wave) and UV-C (short wave).

UV-A is part of the chameleon’s visible spectrum. It allows it to see its surroundings in a slightly different way to humans but it is UV-B that is important for vitamin D3 synthesis in reptiles. UV-B has a wavelength in the range of 290 to 320nm (nanometres).

UV-C is harmful and is used in ultra violet sterilisers.

The process of vitamin D3 synthesis in the skin as a result of exposure to ultra violet light involves complex topics such as PTH (parathyroid) hormones and pre-vitamin D3 conversion.  As such, these are outside the scope of this blog. It’s enough to repeat: UV light is essential for a healthy chameleon. It’s also crucial if a female is to lay viable eggs.

Generally, a UV light for chameleons does not produce heat. It should not be confused with other types of lighting, such as basking or Infra-Red lights.

The sun – the perfect UV light for chameleons

The cheapest source of UV-B is the sun. This is obviously far better than any artificial source.  Anyone who has read any of my books or blogs elsewhere will know I’m a huge advocate of exposing chameleons to natural sunlight. But only in the right location and situation. Obviously, you must exercise common sense how you expose your chameleon. And not all climates are suitable.

Even a few hours outdoors each week will be beneficial.  In South Africa, it was my habit to place my chameleons outside as much as possible, even in the winter.  Unless the temperatures were below 16°C, I would put my Panther chameleons outside against a sunny wall and out of any cold winds during the middle of the day.

In Malaysia, I keep my adult Veiled chameleons outside 24 hours a day. However, the cages are placed so they get a mix of sun and shade. Daytime temperatures in the open can reach 36°C but inside the cages it rarely goes above 32°C.

The cages house small bushes so the chameleons can crawl among the leaves to escape the sun if they wish. An automated watering system helps keep the bottom of the cage moist and at a lower temperature, even on hot days.

Not all species would be survive outside in a hot, tropical climate.

There are subtle differences in behaviour under artificial light compared to natural sun light.  Studies show that in the wild chameleons can regulate their ultra violet light exposure, moving in and out of the sun as required.

How much UV is natural?

Under artificial light, there is evidence that some species are attracted to the ultra violet light a bit like moths. This may mean they do not regulate their exposure as they would in the wild.

This is not necessarily as bad as it sounds when one compares outside UV and that from a UV light using a UV meter.  On a sunny day at noon in Gauteng, a UV meter might read 450 mW/cm2. This may be reduced by cloud or by taking the reading earlier or later in the day but it is still quite intense.

UV light for chameleons showing wavelength
UV light emission from a 5.0 ReptiGlo UV light.

It is worth noting that the altitude on the Highveld (between 1,500 and 1,700 metres above sea level) results in meter readings higher than at sea level. At lower altitudes a reading of 300mW/cm2 might be normal at noon on the equator.  For comparison, a 5.0 ReptiGlo UV light for chameleons will register roughly 17 mW/cm2 at 30 cm from the tube.

Does this comparison mean that either a stronger light is needed indoors or that artificial light is ineffectual? No. If used correctly artificial light can be quite sufficient and beneficial. Using a stronger light would probably result in health issues, including eye damage.

UV Strength

The key thing to remember is the strength of the light falls off with distance from the source.  The following chart for a 5.0 UV tube, shows this clearly:

Strength of the UV as distance from the light  increases
Distance in cm 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50
mW/cm2 100 54 37 28 22 17 14 13 11 9

 

From this chart it can be seen that at 30cm the strength of the light is 17 mW/cm2.  Research and experience show this is an acceptable reading for captive chameleons.

But the chart shows the further down the cage the chameleon travels away from the light source, the lower the ultra violet intensity. By 50cm the light is barely producing any worthwhile UV light.

UV lights for chameleons when they are small
UV lights above baby chameleons. Note the ends overlap to make up for reduced UV.

Another point to bear in mind is that the last few centimetres at each end of the tube produce far less UV than the middle. Therefore, always use the longest tube you can for your cage.

The majority of UV lights on sale in South Africa as tubes normally have an effective lifespan of about nine months. I’ve tested several with a UV meter during use and found some still producing ultra violet at full strength several months after this. However, unless you’ve invested in a UV meter it’s better to assume that nine months is the limit.

Conclusion

If you’re planning on keeping a chameleon, it is essential you invest in UV lighting. If you skimp on this you will end up with a sick chameleon. The only alternative is exposure to direct natural sunlight.

Keeping a chameleon in a window will not work. When the sun hits the window, the temperatures in the chameleon cage are likely rise very quickly. Never put a glass cage outdoors, even with the lid off.

Most types of glass filter out the UV light for chameleons. That means that most conservatories and glasshouses will not work unless special glass is used.

The information shown above is for the ‘normal’ chameleons kept in captivity, e.g. Veiled, Panther, Carpets, etc.  Veiled chameleons are especially prone to MBD and poor UV light is often a direct cause.

There are species that are not as dependent on UV, for example, certain Brookesias that spend their time on the forest floor. Montane species may come from areas with intense cloud cover but when it breaks, the altitude can mean the UV intensity is high. A normal UV set up should be used unless you find evidence to show the species has specific requirements.

UV light for chameleons is essential to avoid MBD
Chameleon suffering severe MBD due to lack of UV lighting

 

Choosing the best cage for your chameleon

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Choosing the best cage for your chameleon

There is a great opportunity for housing a chameleon in a cage that is a focal point and an object of beauty in your house. Be warned: getting the best chameleon cage involves planning and expense!

Whatever cage you decide on must be escape-proof. Chameleons are master escapologists. Your plump Veiled will have no difficulty in compressing laterally and slipping through a narrow gap.

Once the chameleon has disappeared you may not see him again. A chameleon can run at a surprising speed and if it reaches the garden the chances of recovery are slim.  Just as easily, crickets can squeeze through small holes. So, an insect-proof cage is also desirable to avoid a house overrun with chirping insects.

Size is important

The size of the cage for your chameleon depends on your budget, the type of chameleon, the space available in your home and other factors described below.  Don’t forget to take into account the age of your chameleon.

Juveniles will not do well in big cages. Depending on the layout, it’s surprisingly easy for a small chameleon to starve in a large cage. By nature, smaller chameleons are more cautious and will tend to hide. They often stay higher in the cage, so placing food low in the cage or out in the open, could mean it’s ignored. Pygmy chameleons and neonates will be discussed in a later post. For now, let’s focus on the adults of true chameleons.

Adult True Chameleons

The variation and possibilities for housing an adult chameleon are nearly endless.  To avoid costly mistakes, consider the following before designing a little piece of the rainforest in your living room. (Not least of which is – does you chameleon really come from rain forest?)

The following basic requirements must be met.

The housing must be:

  • well ventilated
  • escape proof
  • allow for ultraviolet light
  • allow for temperature management
  • have suitable drainage.

Once these are in place, your imagination can run riot.

Unless the chameleon cage you use is very large, it should only contain one adult chameleon.  It may look like your pair of Veiled chameleons are getting along well but it is an unnatural situation and one or both of them will become stressed.

Glass Cages

Glass can create many problems in a chameleon cage:

  • Ventilation issues
  • Lime scale
  • Reflections
  • Damage to the tongue
  • Poor drainage

Let’s consider these one at a time.

Ventilation

One of the biggest killers (aside from the lack of UV) in the early days was poor ventilation. At that time, everyone assumed high humidity reflected the natural conditions in the wild. This is only true for a limited number of species. Veiled, Panthers, Carpet chameleons and many others need good ventilation. Poor ventilation will lead to respiratory problems.

Glass cages are difficult to ventilate properly. There are some very large cages, often custom-built, that utilise glass and have excellent ventilation. But many do not.

Limescale

If you’re spraying your chameleon sufficiently, you are likely to end up with limescale on the glass. That’s the nasty white crust that builds up quickly from hard water but can result from anything except distilled. It’s unattractive and hard to remove.

Reflection

glass chameleon cage
Reflections can be a big problem with glass cages

Glass will reflect an image of the chameleon back into the cage. This may cause it to use a variety of display stances and colours to make the ‘intruder’ leave its territory.  Obviously, the reflected ‘intruder’ will match each display exactly.  Stress will result.

It is possible to place the cage and lights in ways to minimise the reflection but if it’s not done well, you will have problems. A few species are not anti-social but Veiled and Panther chameleons will not be happy.

Tongue Damage

If the glass is kept very clean, the chameleon will not see it. A fly landing on the outside of the cage will get ‘shot’ but the unforgiving nature of the glass may, in rare cases, damage the tongue.

Poor drainage

Many glass cages have glass bases and are sealed around the base. If the chameleon cage is sprayed with enough water several times a day, the bottom of the cage will be deep in water! Making holes in the base is possible but not without the risk of cracking the base.

Does that mean I can’t use glass?

Where possible, I would say ‘no to glass’. However, I have kept chameleons in the UK and used glass-fronted cages. I have friends with various species that also use glass due to the climate there.

In such cases, these are glass cages designed for reptiles. An old fish tank is not the same thing and will lead to all sorts of problems.

In climates where it is essential to provide heating, for many enthusiasts it’s not practical to heat a room and use net cages. A glass cage is the only option. With care and planning, a glass cage can provide effective housing. It would never be my first choice but it would silly to ignore them.

Netting Cages

Flexarium as netting as a chameleon cage
Netting cages may not be attractive but they are easy to move around.

The cages I have used very successfully over many years are netting cages covering a light plastic tubular frame. The ones I use are Exo Terra flexariums but other brands sell equally good versions.

The benefits of these netting cages are:

  • good ventilation,
  • they allow ultraviolet light
  • good drainage for heavy spraying
  • light enough to carry outdoors when the weather permits
  • easily cleaned
  • available in a variety of sizes (although not so much with Exo Terra these days).

The negative factors of these cages are

  • they can be expensive
  • they are not attractive indoors
  • the netting is not strong enough to stop crickets chewing
  • the zips can prove troublesome after a while.

Furthermore, it is important to remember the netting stops about 40% of the UV light passing through.  Despite these drawbacks, I have found them to be the ideal cage for the chameleons that are available in South Africa and Malaysia.

Other types of chameleon cage

Bird cages

In desperation, I once used a large parrot cage as a makeshift home for an unexpected Meller’s chameleon. I did not like the thin bars.  This is due to the danger that the chameleon will start to climb the thin wires but be unable to maintain its footing and fall.  I also found that the chameleon rubbed its nose on the wire.

Other people, however, have used a similar style of cage for large Veiled chameleons with some success. I would avoid using these as a cage for your chameleon if possible.

Aviaries

Aviary as a chameleon cage
Aviary set up for chameleons

During the summer an aviary can be used to good effect.  I have bred Veiled chameleons in an aviary, keeping one male and several females together without any signs of aggression or stress.  The aviary I used was 4 metres long by 2 metres wide. I put lots of different plants in the cage. This gave a lot of space for each chameleon to hide from others or to go through the mating cycle in almost natural conditions.

I have bred Veiled chameleons in an aviary, keeping one male and several females together without any signs of aggression or stress.  The aviary I used was 4 metres long by 2 metres wide. And it was heavily planted in the centre. This gave a lot of space for each chameleon to hide from others or to go through the mating cycle in almost natural conditions.

When using an aviary there are certain factors that should be considered.  In South Africa, birds can pose a problem. I lost a large male Jackson’s chameleon that was attacked through the wire by weaver birds.  When I opened the aviary door to rescue the chameleon the birds actually flew inside the aviary to continue their assault!  I suspect this was unusual as it has not happened with any chameleons since and I have kept several species quite happily in the same aviary.

I placed a piece of shade netting across the top of the aviary to protect against heavy hail or rain.

Conclusion

Whatever style of chameleon cage you choose, ensure that it has proper drainage to prevent water logging and excessively high humidity. And it should be easy to clean.

There is little point in having an elaborate well-planted cage, mimicking the rain forests of Uganda if you cannot clean it easily and it poses a health risk to your chameleon. But that raises the same question as at the beginning – does your chameleon come from the rain forests of Uganda. Probably not.

Therefore, it’s important to do research about the conditions found in the chameleon’s natural location. Find out how other people have set up their cages.

Finally, don’t forget other considerations such as UV light, the strength of which falls off alarmingly, and the provision of water. I will cover these in later posts.

Any comments, thoughts or suggestions are welcome.